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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.